Summary of the trip

To follow....

3 Aug 2010 - Ramsgate to Levington

Dawn in Thames Estuary

A quiet night, even the port did not make too much noise and the keel stopped clonking when I let it down after low water. Weighed anchor and motored out of the bay at 03:55.  Not our favourite time to start, but with lights from the port, a good moon and lots of buoys it was easy enough to find the way.  Breakfast under way and then a bit of daylight made us feel a bit better.  Motoring with the tide also helps morale whereas motoring against it is just painful. 

Coming to Foulger's Gat, I expected the tide to be against us, as I had noted that direction in the next hour of the tidal atlas (Moan: why don't they put tidal arrows in Fisherman's Gat and Foulger's Gat?). However the tide continued to be with us, but the light following wind was useless so the motoring continued until near Sunk Head, where we turned across wind and tide and could at last start sailing.  We then sailed the rest of the way, a bit slowly at times, and eventually picked up our mooring.

After lunch and a bit of packing the marina let us use a berth temporarily whilst we unloaded a whole carful of stuff, winkling out bottles of wine and cider and presents for the family from odd corners. It seemed a strangely sad packing up our home for the last 2 months and going through the normally-familiar checklist for leaving the boat.

2 Aug 2010 - Dover to Ramsgate

Light forecast and not much wind when we left around lunchtime.  Pam had just bought herself (well, not quite - I had to pay as her card had just gone out of date) a fishing rod. So we decided to start fishing as soon as we left the harbour.  We continued slow motoring and she continued fishing until it was clear that getting back to Levington was not a realistic option. Eventually she caught a good sized mackerel and then continued fishing, but failed to catch another. Arriving near Ramsgate we listened to the chat from the marina on the radio and it soon became apparent that the place was crowded, just with cruising boats - I wonder what it's like in Ramsgate Week!  We decided as the forecast was for continuing light wind to anchor in the bay instead. This would also suit our planned early departure.

Tomorrow: Back to Levington even if we have to motor all the way.

Radio Waves

Have you ever stopped to think of all the different forms of radio used in a normal cruising boat?  About 30-40 years ago the radios in normal use were Radio 4 Long Wave for the shipping forecast and Seafix RDF (medium wave I think) for position fixing, for which it was awkward to use and not very effective.

How different now.  The list for our boat is:

• VHF (SSB for emergency communications and for talking to marinas etc)
• VHF FM for entertainment
• VHF reception for AIS signals
• GPS for accurate position fixing
• GSM for portable telephony
• SMS messaging, which I guess is part of GSM
• GPRS for receiving weather forecasts via mobile phone
• WiFi for computer communication (weather information, email, blogs etc)
• 3G as above
• Wireless networking between instruments (at present only the wind instrument)
• Radar for detecting ships etc

Ones which are commonly used but we do not have are:

• Navtex for weather forecasts etc
• EPIRB for distress messages
• Radio 4 long wave for shipping forecast

Pilot Books

The pilot books claim to be your companion in strange waters, giving useful navigational and pilotage information and details of shore facilities, such as restaurants, chandleries etc. However the authors cannot get to every corner of their patch each year, so the information is inevitably out of date. Some information is I think just copied out of old books unchecked. They are also worried that we might do something careless, so they issue strong warnings about dangers, both real and imagined. In such cases you have to read between the lines to see if it is safe to do anything at all!

Below are a few extracts from pilot books, together with what they really mean:

Pilot book: "Anchor beyond the moorings"
Real Meaning: "The space beyond the moorings is filled with more moorings, so you cannot anchor there"
Pilot book: "Anchor well in to the bay to stay out of the tide"
Real Meaning: "Try to find a space anywhere among all the anchored boats already there"
Pilot book: "Make good a track to place ... lighthouse bearing 110 1/2 mile and continue on this track until the first port beacon No 2 bears 215...SHOM chart 7125 is the only one to use..."
Real Meaning: "Go into the middle of the bay and then follow the beacons to the harbour"
Pilot book: "The belfry of ... church will be open just to the left [of the light tower]"
Real Meaning: "Nobody has ever seen this transit. Enter the middle of the bay and head for the harbour"
Pilot book: "...but is subjected to the Atlantic swell, strong tidal streams, steep seas and the visibility is often poor"
Real Meaning: "dozens of boats go through every day in summer, so you can do it too"
Pilot book: "...with swell and strong onshore winds against the ebb, the bar can become impassable..."
Real Meaning: "don't be stupid"
Pilot book: "The passage from ... over ... to ... is included for interest. It should on no account be attempted by visitors unless..."
Real Meaning: "I am mad"

31 July / 1 Aug 2010 - Cherbourg to Dover

Leaving cool and misty Cherbourg

Weather and forecast are definitely more of the English Channel variety rather han the warm sun of S Brittany. However the wind looked more promising for our crossing, so we motored out of the outer harbour and found enough wind to sail, with the aim of going to Eastbourne. After a while we put up the cruising chute and kept it up for ages - on a deep broad reach with SW wind. The strong tide round the Cotentin peninsula took us torwards the East at a good rate. Around 4 pm we decided the wind was a bit strong for the cruising chute and so took it down with some difficulty. Later put a reef in the main as the wind was getting to F5.

We saw a lot of sea - not much else

Just before dark we put the second reef in the main. Shortly afterwards the wind dropped off a bit and after a while we felt that the autopilot could cope again (we had stopped using it earlier in the day as it reacts a bit late to the effect of waves) so we each managed a bit of rest.

It appeared that we could get to Eastbourne very late or just carry on to Dover in the favourable tide and arrive in the morning, which seemed the better choice. We eventually ran out of wind between Beachy Head and Dungeness and motored for the rest of the way, having tide with us almost to Dover Harbour. A shame to have to motor at the end but this was more than compensated by hour after hour of fast downwind sailing for the first 3/4 of the trip. We found the AIS, even though the basic NASA model, quite useful for deciding when to avoid ships. We did one gybe to avoid a couple of ships.

Went into Granville Dock and settled down for a snooze. Fortunately the tides do not require an early start tomorrow.

Tomorrow we hope to get back home, hopefully avoiding the need to stop in Ramsgate, our least-favourite harbour of the trip.

30 July 2010 - Dielette to Cherbourg

Smooth but fast-flowing water off Cap de la Hague

Left 8:30 and made reasonable progress on a beat. We soon picked up the fast tide of the Race of Alderney (Raz Blanchard to the French) and did not take long to get carried past Cap de La Hague. The water was reasonable smooth, with swirly patches, however most of the wind was made by the tide carrying us forward. Kept checking our speed on the GPS. No records were broken, but we did a fair bit of 12 and 13 knots over the ground with a max of 14 - that suggests a maximum tidal flow of about 9 knots.

We were eventually left in choppy water with light wind and so did a bit of motoring. Looked as if we might motor all day, so headed over to Cherbourg before the tide started taking us back W again. Took the opportunity to buy food, wine etc.

Cherbourg Breakwater - time for repairs?

Tomorrow the forecasts suggest a bit more wind, so we will try again

29 July 2010 - Jersey to Dielette

Morning in St Aubin's Bay. Tide coming in

Dried without incident but set the alarm so as to have the option to depart into the middle of the bay in case there was too much wind / waves.
Woke to find the water far away but coming in quickly (the range was about 8 metres). Left at 8:30 and motored for a while towards the Violet channel, round the SE corner of Jersey. We had a good sail, initially on a beat but then the wind backed so we could head straight for Dielette. Only problem was Les Ecrehous / Les Dirouilles which were in the way. A closer look showed a channel between the two, so we went through, helped by about 3 knots of tide. Did not get to Dielette before the gate closed, or before the tide turned against us, but had to motor a short while against the first of the tide. Moored on the new pontoons on the outer harbour and moved inside later

Met Richard and Pam, the owners of Rockhopper, a Beneteau First 27.7, who had left Paimpol at the same time as us. After a frustrating time in massive rafts of boats on the waiting pontoon at Jersey they had spent the night there and made an early departure, so were already inside at Dielette. He created and still runs the Dutyman system for Yacht Club duties. We ate together at the Cafe where the others all enjoyed their Moules Frites, but I opted for Steak Frites as I did not fancy mussels (bad choice - again!).

Tomorrow we will leave as soon as the gate opens and head for Eastbourne.

28 July 2010 - Paimpol to Jersey

Left Paimpol towards the end of the free-flow period, with a number of other boats, to find a few boats hurrying towards the harbour before the gates closed. Decided to visit the dolphin again, so headed up Chenal de Denou (less stressful from this end near high water) to Cain ar Monse. He was not at home, so we headed for Jersey.

Concentrating on trimming the cruising chute

Made good time with the cruising chute up, just holding it at the deepest possible wind angle. Nearing Jersey we decided to take it down before the wind became too strong, whereupon the wind dropped a bit.

St Aubin's Fort shelters a corner of the beach

As we approached the harbour a number of fast motor boats came past. When almost at the last buoy before the harbour we heard on the radio that the waiting pontoon was congested by the arrival of the motor boats which were on the RYA motor boat cruise and had arrived a day late due to bad weather. We decided to wait in St Aubin's bay, so went in and anchored, After a while we moved in behind St Aubin's Fort, which is a bit more sheltered, but not great. Expect to dry out about 01:30 am.

Tomorrow we hope to go to Dielette.

27 July 2010 - Paimpol

Late breakfast and then went to the market, which was much bigger than on our last visit, and very busy. Bought lots of stuff and bumped into Paul again. Paul and Catherine joined us on the boat for lunch - we were trying to repay some of Paul's hospitality, but I think we still have some way to go.

After a lengthy and sociable lunch we visited the wine shop and bought a few bottles, which they immediately delivered to the boat on a trolley - what service! We then made a short expedition to the hypermarket, mostly to replace the empty gas bottle and returned with heavy rucsacs.

Now I am trying to spend some more of my credit with netabord (still have nearly 16 hours left) by at last updating the blog. It's nearly bedtime so the photos will have to follow another day as they take ages

Tomorrow we hope to go to Jersey as that seems easier tide-wise than Guernsey.

26 July 2010 - Trieux River to Paimpol

Cool, damp and misty again. Decided to have a lunch stop at La Chambre (Ile de Brehat) and then go on to Paimpol Bay, or if the weather still like this to the marina.

Misty rocks in Ferlas Channel near Ile de Brehat

Sailed in the mist down the Ferlas channel (which runs between Ile de Brehat and the mainland). The tide was fairly low by this time and the sides of the channel were lined with impressive jagged granite rocks and also some cardinal marks. The marks are either massive stone beacons which seem to try to rival the rocks themselves, or spindly sticks with cardinal topmarks. At La Chambre there was a big "no anchoring" notice and there was not enough water to go in and see if there was another notice saying anchoring allowed again, so we anchored off Men Allan, the next bay. After lunch and a brief trip ashore we decided that Paimpol Marina was to be the evening's destination. We visited the buoy at Cairn ar Monse to look for the dolphin, but he was not at home. Then down the Chenal de Denou which cuts a corner into Paimpol - and so means more stressful pilotage with following tide.

We have now done the washing, so we won't smell tomorrow when we visit the market.

Hopefully move on on Wednesday

25 July 2010 - Anse de Terenez to Trieux River

Gannets at Sept Iles

Cool, damp and misty. Weighed anchor and moved to the outermost spare buoy so we did not dry out. Bad move as it was more exposed and in wind against tide so we rocked and rolled for a while and soon decided to leave right away, thinking that sailing against tide was better than this uncomfortable buoy. As soon as we had motored out of the bay and set sail I demanded ginger tea and ginger biscuit to help settle my stomach. We then put up the cruising chute and had an excellent sail, passing by Sept Iles, which is a bird reserve, so that we could see the gannets. The other birds, such as puffins seem to have left after the end of the breeding season. However we had a good view (and smell!) of the gannets and saw lots of them returning to the island. They all seemed to be coming from the East.

Around Les Heaux lighthouse we found ourselves in strong tide, as on our last visit to this corner a few weeks ago. However this time the tide was with us, increasing our feeble 4.5 knots through the water to 8+ over the ground.

Les Heaux lighthouse (and gannets)

Went down the Moisie channel and then into the Grand Chenal, which leads to the Trieux river and Lezardrieux. All a bit hectic trying to pick out the buoys whilst being carried along on the tide. Once in the Grand Chenal we put in a reef and not long afterwards found we were in a sheltered channel with flukey wind, so decided to motor to a suitable anchorage. However we found no engine cooling water so picked up a nearby buoy and tinkered with the engine. Eventually decided, after checking the filter, impeller etc, that the drive belt to the pump was not tight enough (easily fixed), but by then it awas too late to go anywhere.

Tomorrow: Paimpol Bay or Paimpol Marina

Good Weather Forecasts

I don't mean they always forecast good weather but the way they do it here is quite good. The inshore waters forecast is broadcast at fixed times on ch 79 (usually announced on ch 16) and then it seems to repeat every 1/2 hour on 79. Very helpful if you missed it or if it takes 2 or 3 goes to understand it. We are currently in the Corsen area. The Etel area, further South is repeating the forecast every 5 minutes on channel 63 as an experiment.

The weather forecast does not have a lot of notices attached to it as it does in UK. These seem to be broadcast separately and we don't always listen to them.

Bloody Radio Checks

Don't read this - it's just a rant.

Now we are back in N Brittany I expect we will hear the first replies to radio check from the UK coastguard. They seem to have huge aerials and with high pressure weather they are often audible over here. This year we have also heard the French yachties asking for radio checks. The reply is usually "fort éclair" or similar. Why would the coastguard want to discuss strong cream cakes?

However that still does not answer the questions: Why do people keep asking for checks and why does the coastguard management pay their people to engage in such meaningless chatter?

Maybe we could dedicate a special channel for radio checks?

End of rant.

24 July 2010 Ile de Batz to Anse de Terenez

Bought bread at opening time 7:30 and then moved out of the harbour so we did not dry out. Anchored outside to await tide, wind, sunshine etc. Thought we might have a lunch stop at Anse de Terenez then on to Locquirec. Decided to wait for a little rise of tide before leaving the Chenal de l'Ile de Batz, so had lunch.

In Chenal de l'Ile de Batz

After a slow sail to Terenez we decided it looked sheltered enough and there was no way we could get to Locquirec without lots of motoring. On the way in we had another occurence of the keel refusing to lift. Sent the diver down to put a rope round the wing, pulled backwards on the rope and up it came! Possibly the hydraulic unit is not pulling hard enough or something is causing the keel to stick. One possibility is that I found the lid over the keel securing pin was a bit loose. All the nuts and bolts holding the hinges were loose and one nut was missing, presumably down by the keel somewhere. It's only a M4 nut so I hope it is small enough to fall through without jamming everything.

Moorings and Oyster boats in Anse de Terenez

Anchored and found a direct sales oyster place where we bought 1 doz oysters. Otherwise this place just has a sailing school and 2 eateries. Nearest boulanger 4 km so it will be long life bread for breakfast tommorow, after which we hope to go to Port Blanc or somewhere else a fair way East

Drying out was a bit strange. As the boat touched the bottom the water flowed very fast and shallow making the boat weave about a bit. After the water had all gone, I found the sand had been eroded into a hole at each end of the keel wing. Thankfully we slept through the return of the water, which I presume was less dramatic.

23 July 2010 L-Aber Benoit to Ile de Batz

Geomonier outside L'Aber Benoit

Still could not be bothered to blow up the dinghy - it's a nice enough place but does not seem worth the trouble for a brief trip ashore. Motored out and started sailing just before Libenter buoy. On the way out we saw one of the geomonier's boats loading up with seaweed.

After a while we could bear away enough to put up the cruising chute - then the wind went light and we went the rest of the way thinking of starting the engine. On the way the French boat which had been outside us at Lesconil motored past, with lots of waving. Maybe they had stopped at L'Aber Wrac'h. Eventually arrived in Chenal de l'Ile de Batz, went into Porz Kernoc and looked round for an anchoring place, which I eventually found. Slight worry that some boat might turn up for the 2 small buoys near us. After the tide went down we discovered that these and other similar buoys are fixed to big chains running across the harbour. We watched a couple of boats whose anchors were near the chains remove their anchor and moor to the chain with a line which could be slipped - good plan.

In Porz Kernoc, Ile de Batz

Tomorrow: Still expecting light weather so Locqueric with an optional lunch stop in Anse de Terenez (in Bay de Morlaix)

22 July 2010 - Morgat to L'Aber Benoit

Left after early breakfast and found promising wind strength and direction. A big old 3 masted ship came sailing the other way, heading for Dournanez where there is a rally of old ships, starting today. Close-hauled all the way to the start of Chenal du Four, putting one reef in on the way. Carried on up this channel in fine style, with only a small patch of short choppy waves.

Le Four lighthouse at the N end of Chenal du Four

On mooring at L'Aber Benoit looking towards the sea

After the end of the channel we found more swell and eventually started our turn-off for L'Aber Benoit. We then found ourselves on a broad reach with following swell trying to pick up the marks. GPS makes this a lot easier! Arriving at the start of the moorings we started the engine and found no cooling water was coming out. Reached up and down for a while, thanks to a fortunate wind direction, to find that Pam had not put the filter basket in right way round, and then I had not tightened the cover up properly. Panic over - picked up a mooring and had an idle evening, not bothering to blow up the dinghy and go ashore. It's a quiet place with some moorings but quite a walk to any shops.

We have now passed the 2 major tidal/weather gates between South and North Brittany (Raz de Sein and Chenal du Four). Made an outline plan of where to go over the next few days. Wait and see - tomorrow is Ile de Batz, hopefully.

21 July 2010 - Lesconil to Morgat

La Vielle lighthouse and La Plate beacon
which mark the E side of the Raz de Sein

7 am departure. The outside French boat had already left at 6. After an hour of motoring, Pam moaned that she did not care if we didn't get through the Raz today, so long as we could stop motoring. We then found we soon started making adequate speed under sail and continued towards the Raz, eventually crossing at slack water at the end of the northbound flow. A number of other boats were crossing in both directions at that time. Boring again - no overfalls, whirlpools, sea monsters etc.



Arrived at Morgat and after failing to get the anchor to hold, picked up a buoy. On going ashore we could not find the town - must be hidden behind cafes and restaurants. Seems a quiet sort of family holiday place.

Tomorrow we hope to go through the Chenal du Four and maybe finish up at L'Aber Benoit. Another early departure needed.

20 July 2010 - L'Odet River to Lesconil

Stopped at the marina for fuel and they let us moor for 2 hours whilst we did some essential food shopping and filled with water - very civilised!

Eventually left about lunchtime with the original idea of going to St Evette. This was too far in light wind and would have meant a long motoring session, so stopped at Lesconil.

On the way the weather clouded over. We had been told many times that when entering South Brittany you see a line in the sky where the weather changes and it's suddenly warm and sunny. Maybe we were now crossing that line the other way.

Lesconil Harbour (seen on the way out)

At Lesconil we rafted outside 2 other boats: A French family who wanted to show the grandchildren the dolphins, but had not yet found any, and an English couple who were bringing their boat back to England after keeping it in S Brittany for 18 years. We were later joined by a French boat containing 2 ladies and one of their sons, brought as extra crew to help them through the Raz de Sein and the Chenal du Four.

Pam told the harbourmaster we had already visited this year. He found our record card and gave us a free night's mooring. Amazing.

Visited the circus. OK except they had rope and rings hanging up but were not used, which was disappointing. Cannot work out how such a small circus can afford such a fine assembly of vehicles, which even included a BMW 5 series on a trailer (as you might take a tender on a boat).

19 July 2010 - L'Odet River

Going up Odet River

Don't fancy a 30 mile day with hardly any wind. Also the river here is said to be pretty, so we motored up to the bridge before Quimper and went the rest of the way in the dinghy.

Quimper

 

Took a rather rushed look at the city, bought some food and came away again.

On the way back down the river we stopped in a small side channel and were surprised and delighted to find that there was only one other visiting boat there, in the next little pool of the river.

What an amazing change from the busy anchorages of Iles Glenan. Swam, had lunch and eventually came away when the tide rose enough for us to get out. Motored down the river to another side channel, not quite as hidden and secluded, but still a very quiet place to spend the night.

Hopefully tomorrow we can make some miles back. Cannot get the forecast here by VHF as we are too far inland. Pressure is down a bit and there are some streaks of high cloud.

18 July 2010 - Belon River to L'Odet River

A quick trip ashore to check the prices at Chez Jacky resulted in us buying a few oysters, some Palourdes Roses and some Armandes.

Crossed the bar just after high water and found the wind was light but usable (yes, we are back to the proper High Pressure weather, warm sunshine and blue sky). Decided to make a stop at Iles de Glenan for lunch. It turned out to be a very late lunch and hundreds of boats were there, which was not a problem as there are lots of safe anchorages when the wind is light and there is no swell. Lunch, swim, and thought we would head on to Benodet when the sea breeze filled in. It never did. We left the islands at Sunday afternoon rush hour, finding different streams of boats heading for Benodet, Port le Foret, Concarneau etc. After sailing for a while we motored on to the Odet River and picked up a buoy above the bridge.

Entering the Odet River with Benodet on right

A bit tricky opening the oysters - no serious injuries yet

Ate the oysters. However to our uneducated palates the Belon oysters did not seem any better than the normal ones - maybe we should have signed up for the expensive meal.

Tomorrow the forecast is for light wind again. Hopefully we can make more progress heading back home.

17 July 2010 - Hennebont to Belon River

A good choice of Boulangeries in Hennebont. It also has a very large market every Thursday, but we missed that. After breakfast we went back down the river to Lorient where we hoisted sail. Fine clear cool sunny day and we had a good sail, close-hauled all the way but mostly on one tack, to the bay where the Belon and Aven river come out. We anchored at Port Mannec'h to wait for the tide. Towards half tide we crossed the bar into the Belon River. Instructions for this were contradictory: The pilot books said use the SE side of the river, a neighbouring boat said use the NW side of the river, the chartplotter showed a dredged area but at a low zoom level said it was dredged in 1987! Anyway we found a minumum depth of 1.9m which was plenty

Some of visitors moorings and "Chez Jacky" restaurant

The Belon River is said to be very beautiful and famous for its oysters. The beauty is a bit spoilt by every spare corner being filled with fore and aft yacht moorings. We eventually used one of the big visitors moorings and were glad of help from the harbourmaster as it's difficult to thread a rope onto a big steel buoy without bashing the boat and even more difficult to fix the other end of the boat to the other buoy without 2 very long warps.

Went ashore for a quick beer and then took a quick look at the famous "Chez Jacky", which is an expensive seafood restaurant specialising in Belon oysters. They also run a shop but it was closed.

16 July 2010 - Lorient to Hennebont

Gusty wind and rain during the first part of the night. However by morning the wind had dropped and the sun was out. However the weather forecast still shows sea state of Agitee to Forte and swell of 3m, so we had an early breakfast and headed up the river to Hennebont. A short way from Lorient the river winds through a peaceful wooded valley. After a few miles we arrived at Hennebont and stopped on the visitors' pontoon.

Nice town, but rather a noisy mooring place as there is a road each side of the river, a busy low road bridge just upriver and a big railway bridge 1/2 a mile downthe river.

We did a walking tour of all the out of town superstores to exchange the gaz bottle. Tried Carrefour, Bricolac and Aldi before arriving at Leclerc (on the way back we passed Lidl and Coccimart). I exchanged the last one at a chandlery at about €26 (a rip-off by any standard), and later saw one in a superstore for €17, so I have postponed exchanging the bottle until within reach of a suitable store. A risky strategy which could result in no gas and no supper! Today I decided that the bottle MUST be exchanged and eventually found one at Leclerc for €18.30. It's a shame the UK superstores don't offer a good price like this. We bought a lot of other stuff too with Pam commenting on how cheap it was compared with the markets - lucky it was not a hot day - and then found a pleasant shady footpath which led most of the way back to the harbour.

Tomorrow we think the weather and sea state will be OK and we hope to head to the Belon River. This is reputed to have the best oysters

15 July 2010 - Lorient

Depressions still around, pressure still low, wind and swell still forecast to be more than we want. However otherwise it looked a good enough day. Visited the local covered market where we bought Coquilles St Jaques and Red Gurnard, cheese, fruit, veg and other stuff. A bit expensive but good quality.

On our return to the boat we were recruited by a local teacher to do a bit of English Conversation with his adult pupils - harder work than I expected, but had the useful effect of correcting our mis-interpretation of the ferry timetable, and he also took us to the ferry landing.
Not many fishing boats here but they are bigger than those elsewhere
We took the ferry to Saint Louis, on the other side of the harbour, where we visited the Citadel and some of its museums. Weather still fine with showers. Very few boats around - I think they had also listened to the forecast.

Tomorrow we hope to go up the river to Hennebont as it still does not look like good conditions for going to sea. The marina helpfully phoned Hennebont who said they had a space for us. This marina is definitely in the top 5 of the trip. Ramsgate remains bottom.

14 July 2010 - Lorient

There is a depression nearby, with SW5-6->7 forecast, so we decided to visit Cité del La Voile and the old submarine base. We eventually worked out that as it's Bastille Day the Sunday bus timetable applied and eventually arrived. The tours of the base itself were all booked up, which was disappointing as it is an amazing structure built during the second world war with a concrete and steel roof 3.5m thick which withstood all the bombs dropped on it, so we did the tour of the submarine. This was Flore, built in the 1960s, and a fairly conventional diesel-electric submarine. After the enormous nuclear sub at Cherbourg this was remarkably basic and cramped.

Another large exhibition covered many aspects of sailing but we skipped it as I think it covered a lot of stuff that we know. The marina there contained the late Eric Taberley's Pen Duick, Pen Duick II, III and VI, L'Hydroptere (the foiling trimaran which broke the 50 knot record and which we saw off Cowes) and several other massive multihulls. One of the big sheds had the door ajar and we peeped in and saw the trimaran Foncia suspended over another similar monster. They must need big launching trollies.

Weather quite unstable today with sun and showers. The marina is sheltered by tall buildings but sometimes a gust comes and rattles the masts. The owner of the next berth returned early from his cruise, describing rain and big waves on the way back from Belle Ile. Similar weather forecast for tomorrow, so I think we will stay here again, possibly moving up the river on Friday to Hennebont.

13 July 2010 - Port Tudy to Lorient

Forecast is still for horrible weather on Wednesday afternoon and night. We would be quite secure here in the middle harbour at Ile de Groix, but it's not a great island to visit and the harbour is a bit noisy with ferries coming and going all day. The ferries for this island and For Belle Ile are pint-sized ro-ro ferries with proper big stern door and forward side door. They look quite small on the water but huge in the small harbours. They like to make as much noise as possible, announcing arrival with one long blast on the hooter, departure with 3 short ones, and presence in the harbour with a lot of noisy loading and unloading.

Port Tudy - rafting on moorings in the outer harbour (we were inside)

We decided to go to Lorient, which is a big place with lots of stuff to see. Straightforward trip across - only a few miles and we then followed the buoys up to Lorient, which is not too difficult as the place can take big ships. However there is a narrows which looks tricky for a ship of any size and is guarded by the citadel, complete with cannons and the modern traffic control station and IPTS. Went into Lorient marina (there are about 5 others) which had been recommended to us. After a lazy lunch we did a bit of essential shopping and returned to find that the HM had moved the boat to a finger berth (which we had been asking for). We were glad to be in a less busy spot.

Big evening firework display (part of the Bastille Day celebrations - it might as well be called Firework Day). The whole harbour area, and a lot more of the town I think, was full of people. We had a good view from the boat.

Tomorrow we will stay here and visit some touristical stuff.

11 July 2010 Etel

Rain! and the whole weather situation has gone a bit unstable - not bad but just not the set fair Azores high pressure that we had got used to.

The rain only lasted a short time. We then went to a small market and bought wine, cider, oysters etc.
Then a walk down to look at the bar (called barre d'Etel in French) at low water - only problem is that it was no longer low water but about 1 hour after. No sandbanks visible but breaking waves and small local boats going in and out. The tide seems to continue to flow out of the river for ages after low tide, a bit like the river Ore but more so. I think the bar is only a big problem if there is strong onshore wind or swell and the river is ebbing.

Up the Ria d'Etel well above the harbour
Took a walk along the coast path up the river, which is called the Ria d'Etel. Although the entrance is relatively narrow the upper parts of the Ria are a beautiful expanse of water which rushes in and out through some narrow gaps, one of which is bridged by a bridge only 9m high. It is easier to explore by speedboat than on the coast path which wiggles round lots of inlets. Eventually turned round and stopped for a swim on the way back. I am not really keen on French coast paths, partly because I made the mistake of wearing trainers instead of walking shoes, but mostly because the path is often enclosed by high hedges through which you can hear the sea but not see it. The path often takes detours round houses. However the paths all seem to be well maintained and signed.

Wind forecast to be SW tomorrow. Hope to go to Ile Groix.

10 July 2010 Sauzon to Etel

Thick mist at first - could not see the other side of the harbour (and it's small). Up early and motored out to the moorings outside the harbour, where we had breakfast and waited for the mist to clear. It soon cleared but there was still no wind so decided to motor to Etel. After a while there was just enough wind to sail, by which time the batteries were fully charged and the computer charged.




Arrived at Etel bar at the right time and were piloted in by radio across the bar (this is their standard procedure as there is a rather unstable bar outside the river) which made us feel rather important. The pilot welcomed us to Etel and wished us a good holiday and suggested we call the marina on channel 9. They immediately came out in a RIB and helped us to a finger berth - An excellent welcome to a rather nice place. Pam bought and cooked langoustines and we also had palourdes and oysters, with the help of a bottle of wine.

The marina has wifi (remember to say it "weefee") but unfortunately it's Orange wifi and not Netabord, so I am not paying again. Will have to wait for another port to update the blog.

Tomorrow we might go to Ile de Groix - or we might just stay here as it's rather a nice place.

12 July 2010 - Etel to Port Tudy (ile de Groix)

Up early in order to catch the morning tide. Left the marina and headed down the river after a few other boats. Normally I would be concerned about leaving a fast-flowing tidal river at 1.5 - 2 hours after high water - I would be worried about being swept along at an alarming speed on a "one-way trip". No problem with that - the water was still flowing into the river at 1 knot or less and was still flowing in when we crossed the bar at about 2 hours after high water just before the pilot went off duty. We again had assistance by radio from the pilot - she is quite concise and formal with the actual pilotage, but then gets a bit chatty afterwards, wishing the visiting yachties "bon vacances" and exchanging pleasantries with old friends.



Sailed all the way to Port Tudy (there's a change) in S wind and were moored by 10:30! They say it's busy here and it's a good idea to arrive early but that's ridiculous! Hired bikes and explored part of the island, including the village of Lochmaria on the S side of the island, where we checked the anchoring possibilities for future use. I hoped using a bike would give my blister a rest, but we had to walk from each bike parking place to the relevant viewpoint.

The island is not as different from the mainland as the others we have visited and so is a little disappointing - it even has a full water system with fire hydrants and proper drains. The bike hire asked me to sign a form and expected a deposit - the others just took the money and gave us the bikes.

Hope tomorrow to move on to Lorient. The following day (Wed) is forecast to be very windy and we would like to be somewhere with shelter and entertainmant.

9 July 2010 - Houat to Sauzon

It's time to start heading back home, slowly. Before moving, the diver took a look at the keel but found nothing. She called for a knife to move a few barnacles, but that did not make any difference, so she rigged a rope round the wing and led it aft. I took up tension on the rope and then the keel came up OK. Then went down and up again as normal. Worrying but seems OK now - hope it does not stop working at a critical point...

It's handy having a diver on hand, however the diving stuff took up some time and with light headwind we would have to motor all the way to get to Etel, so went to Sauzon (that's on Belle Ile, remember) which is on the way.
Fine race boat full of jolly people overtook us - we were doing our best but it was longer than us and looked quite a fast boat. Moored in the inner harbour again and this time we touched the bottom at low tide (first time this trip).
Pam bought a chunk of Lotte which is Monkfish from the extremely busy fish stall. The Monkfish was a good buy - very meaty texture. Lots of people were buying Lotte and also Arraignee (If you have been attending you will remember that's spider crab). Music and small craft market on the quayside.

Tommorrow we plan to leave the inner harbour early before we go aground, pick up one of outside buoys to have our breakfast and maybe then go to Etel (as I have said before).

8 July 2010 - Day trip to Hoedic and back to Houat

Still have high pressure and the sea breeze / land breeze cycle. Departed after breakfast to use the rest of the land breeze to get to Hoedic, just a few miles away. Not much breeze, so a slow trip. Anchored at the E of Hoedic, swam, explored island, lunch and eventually came back to Houat using the sea breeze, but there was not much of that either. We would have preferred to go back to Sauzon but there was not enough wind to get us there in time to get into the inner harbour. Hoedic is even smaller and quieter than Houat.

Maybe tomorrow we will leave early and go all the way to Etel. Problem is that the keel refuses to lift more than an inch or two so will have to send the diver down first. This happened a few days ago and cured itself quickly. I wonder if it is a result of running into the big jellyfish - when they hit the rudder it gives a big rattle but none has yet tripped the emergency release for the rudder blade.

7 July 2010 - Houat

Just a light land breeze as forecast (that's E-NE which is onshore at our side of the island) - so all that stuff we have been reading about the "vent solaire" causing chaos in a good anchorage seems a bit exaggerated. Thought we might wait for the normal sea breeze and then pop over to Hoedic for lunch and then back here. Breeze did not come, leaving light wind all day, so decided to stay rather than motor there and back. Explored a bit more of the island and swam.

Maybe tomorrow we will visit Hoedic and then head back to Sauzon (Belle Ile). After that it would be good to visit the Etel river, which has a fast tide at the entrance and the pilot gives instructions by radio.

6 July 2010 - Belle Ile to Houat

Unusually we departed earlier than necessary, and after leaving the harbour we found that there was very little wind. So sailed slowly, trailing an ineffective fishing line. Motored for a while, passed through the Passage du Beniguet, which is one of the gaps on the line of islands and rocks that stretches out from the Quiberon peninsula. Anchored off the E end of Houat in a very popular and well known anchorage off the beach of Treac'h er Gourhed. Fortunately the beach is long and the bottom shelves very gradually so there is room for lots of boats - 70-80 were there when we went ashore. We expect the wind to shift over night to NE and possibly E following the effect of the "vent solaire". Just hope that the horror stories of boats all getting tangled up in the night do not occur tonight.

Nice quiet island. No cars or proper roads. A jumble of houses and lanes, though looking more prosperous than some of the previous islands. Plenty of people here on holiday with young children.

Maybe tomorrow we will take a look at Hoedic and then consider starting to head back home.